You climb up into Marpissa as the light begins to slant. White houses scramble up the hillside, windmills cut the sky in two, and the air smells of thyme and sea salt. Somewhere here, on the island’s eastern side, Paros stops being just beaches and becomes a workshop. Because on this hill, inside a renovated neoclassical building, is kept the story of a man who taught stone to breathe.
The place that breeds sculptors
It is no accident that Paros produced sculptors. The island hides in its depths the legendary Parian marble, lychnites — that translucent, milky stone the ancients worked by lamplight inside galleries. From it were carved some of the most important sculptures of antiquity.
Walking through the villages of Paros, you understand that the relationship with stone never stopped. It passed from generation to generation, from hand to hand. And somewhere there, in Marpissa, took root the family that would give the island one of its most beloved creators.
One man, two islands
Nikos Perantinos carried two Cyclades within him. His father, Leonardos Perantinos, came from Marpissa in Paros; his mother, Angeliki Metaxa, from Syros. Two islands, two temperaments, that merged in one man destined to work with his hands.
He studied at the School of Fine Arts, in the workshop of Thomas Thomopoulos, and continued his studies in Paris — where the 20th century was rearranging art. But Perantinos was not swept up by the trends. He remained faithful to something deeper: simplicity and classical form. He was, as they say, a master of the pure line, and his work stood out with many distinctions and awards.
Guardian of ancient beauty
In 1941 Perantinos was appointed permanent sculptor of the Archaeological Museum. Imagine what that means: to stand before broken, mutilated ancient sculptures and restore them, to converse with craftsmen who died two and a half thousand years ago, to guess at their gesture.
This experience marked him. The man who carried out significant restorations of ancient sculptures learned measure, restraint, the silent power of classical form. And when he returned to his own material, he now carried it like an inheritance entrusted to him.
The return to the root
In 1964, returning from Paris, Perantinos made a move that says everything about his character: he founded a marble-sculpting workshop in Agia Anna, Paros. He did not simply want to create; he wanted to give continuity to the tradition of sculpture on his island.
It was an act of generosity. This place opened to people of every age who love sculpture — so the flame would not go out, so the marble would pass into new hands. Thus, on Paros, the art never remained a museum object; it stayed alive, full of dust and chisels.
You do not conquer stone by force, but by patience; you remove from it what is superfluous, until the form that was always hidden within it appears.The philosophy of Parian marble sculpture
A museum that grew with love
Nikos Perantinos passed away in 1991. Almost immediately, his work found a home — at first in a small, modest hall in Paros. Scarcely enough space for such a great body of work.
In the years that followed, the Museum’s boards of directors struggled, with the help of the Municipality of Paros and the Ministry of Culture, to make it worthy of its creator. And they succeeded. Today the Nikos Perantinos Sculpture Museum is housed in a beautifully renovated neoclassical building, with five large halls that breathe light — the same Cycladic light that once fell upon his chisels.
You climb the hill of Marpissa to see sculptures. You leave having understood something about Paros as a whole: that behind the golden sands and cosmopolitan harbors beats a quieter heart — one that knows how to turn stone into soul. Let it touch you.
Useful information
- The Museum is located on the hill of Marpissa, on the eastern side of Paros, in a renovated neoclassical building with five halls.
- Combine it with a stroll through the picturesque village of Marpissa and its windmills, as well as the nearby marble-sculpting tradition of Agia Anna.
- Wear comfortable shoes for the climb, and prefer the afternoon hours for the softest light.
- Confirm opening hours before your visit, as they change seasonally.
- The eastern part of Paros pairs ideally with the mountain villages (Lefkes, Prodromos) and the beaches of the Golden Coast.