There are moments in a traveler’s life when the body grows tired, yet the soul is filled. The climb to Kalamos on Anafi is exactly such a moment: a trail that tests your endurance, only to reward you at the end with an image that is hard to forget. It is no coincidence that the island itself, according to myth, “appeared” (anafáni) from the waves when Apollo revealed it to save the Argonauts from a fearsome storm. Climbing toward the summit, you feel as though you are walking upon that very story.
The starting point: from Chora into the unknown
The route begins in Chora, at the ruins of the ancient Kastelli, where the island’s acropolis once stood. From the very first steps, the landscape changes character: stone paths give way to a wild, almost lunar terrain, where wind and limestone rock have sculpted shapes over centuries.
The trail climbs gradually, unhurried, as if wanting to prepare you mentally for what follows. The sound of your footsteps on the dry earth becomes your sole companion in the silence.
Kalokambos: a breath before the summit
As you continue, you reach Kalokambos, a plateau that functions as a natural balcony above the Aegean. Here time seems to slow down. Your gaze drifts into the open blue, while the air carries scents of thyme and tamarisk.
It is the point where many hikers pause for a few minutes, not only to rest, but to realize how far they have come — and how magnificent what still lies ahead truly is.
Kalamos: Europe’s second-highest monolith
The imposing rock of Kalamos, also known as the Monolith, rises sharply above the sea, forming one of the most striking geological sights in the Cyclades. It is considered the second-highest monolith in Europe, and its appearance from afar, with clouds often brushing its summit, fully justifies its reputation.
The final stretch of the route is the most demanding: steeper, rockier, with the wind picking up as you near the top. Every step here carries weight and meaning.
The Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa
At the summit awaits the Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa, a white building constructed atop ancient ruins, on the site where a sanctuary dedicated to Apollo Aiglitis once stood. The coexistence of ancient worship and Christian tradition at the same spot reveals how deeply rooted the sanctity of this place is in the consciousness of Anafi’s residents.
From there, the view stretches unobstructed toward the Cretan Sea. On clear days, the eye travels as far as the neighboring islands, while the sea below shifts in hue, from deep blue to turquoise, depending on the light.
At the summit of Kalamos, sky and sea seem to merge into a single, boundless line.Tradition of Anafi’s residents
An experience that stays with you
Descending, you carry more than tired legs. You carry the memory of a landscape untouched by time, a view few are fortunate enough to see, and a connection to the myth that gave the island its name. Anafi, through this trail, proves that true adventure in the Cyclades needs no crowds or noise — only willingness, endurance, and respect for nature.
Useful information
- Set out early in the morning, before the heat builds, ideally at sunrise.
- Wear comfortable, closed hiking shoes — the ground is rocky and slippery in places.
- The round trip takes about 3–4 hours, depending on your pace.
- Bring plenty of water, a hat, and sunscreen, as there is no shade along most of the route.
- Avoid the climb on days with strong winds, especially on the final, steepest section.
- In early September, the feast of Panagia Kalamiotissa is celebrated, drawing locals and visitors alike to the festivities.