There are places you find. And there are places that, as the myth of Anafi itself tells it, “reveal themselves” before you, as if they had been waiting for the right moment. The Chora of Anafi is exactly that: a revelation. A small white settlement at the edge of the Aegean, where the Cretan Sea meets the Cyclades, that does not shout for your attention — it simply waits, quietly, to be discovered.
An island that “appeared” to save
Tradition has it that Apollo made Anafi rise from the waves, lighting the way for the Argonauts on a starless night. The island’s name still carries that memory; a land revealed as salvation. Arriving today at the small harbour and looking up, you understand why the myth has survived so many centuries. Chora appears suddenly upon the hillside, like an unexpected gift.
The amphitheatrical Chora and its whitewashed alleys
Chora of Anafi is built amphitheatrically, its houses climbing one above the other, looking down over the harbour. Walking through its winding, narrow alleys, you feel the whitewashed surfaces reflect the light almost as if glowing from within. Blooming courtyards with basil and geraniums open up beside small churches, while the island’s cats sleep undisturbed in the shade of a wall.
There is none of the crowding found in other Cycladic settlements here. Instead, there is a sense of an untouched place, where Aegean architecture remains authentic, without unnecessary ornamentation — simple, spare, functional, just as generations of fishermen and farmers built it.
The Venetian Castle and the sunset
At the top of Chora, the ruins of the Venetian Castle — Kastelli, as the locals call it — still stand guard over the island. Climbing up there in the afternoon, as the light slowly fades, the view spreads out unrestrained: the harbour below, the white roofs of Chora, and beyond, on the horizon, the Cretan Sea changing colour by the minute.
Sunset from here is not merely a view. It is an experience that makes you stop, fall silent, and let time flow without resistance.
In Anafi the sun does not simply set — it bids farewell.Old saying of local sailors
Kalamos and nature’s wild grandeur
From the heights of Chora, the eye inevitably travels toward Kalamos, the imposing monolith rising to the east of the island, one of the tallest rocks in the Mediterranean. This view, combined with the vast blue of the Cretan Sea, is a reminder that Anafi remains, above all, an island of wild, untamed beauty — a place where nature has not been subdued.
A slow pace and warm hospitality
In the evening, Chora shifts its rhythm without losing its calm. In the traditional cafés of the square, locals and visitors sit side by side, sharing a conversation, a coffee, a glass of wine. Hospitality here is not a display — it is the natural consequence of a place that has learned to live at its own, slow pace.
You sleep to the sound of the wind and wake to light sliding across the white walls. In Chora of Anafi, rest is not a luxury; it is a way of life.
Anafi does not try to impress you. It simply gives you room to breathe, to look at the horizon, and to remember why you travelled all this way. And when you leave, something of that calm will follow you.
Useful information
- Chora is a few minutes from the harbour (Agios Nikolaos), reachable by local bus, taxi, or on foot along the old footpath.
- Wear comfortable, non-slip shoes — the alleys are cobbled and uphill.
- Sunset from the Venetian Castle is one of the most popular moments of the day; go early to secure a good spot.
- The path to the Castle has uneven ground in places; caution is required, especially at dusk.
- Respect the quiet of the settlement, particularly during the morning and midday hours.